Safety first - Working on multi-way installationsīe extremely cautious when opening up multi-way switches. Because the brown, black and grey cores (or red, yellow and blue if you're using cable in the old colours) can all at times be live at a light switch, they must carry a warning flag of brown (formerly red) PVC electrical sleeving or tape. For this to be possible, you have to use cable with an extra core - so the current can run in various directions, along various routes. The connections in two- and three-way light switches are such that the circuit can be made or broken at any of the switch points. Start by running the cable between the two switch positions and installing a mounting box at the new switch position. And after that, you should link the two with 1mm 2 three-core-and-earth cable. Then you'll need to install a new two-way switch at the second control point. Firstly, you must replace the original switch with a two-way fitting. There are three key things you'll need to do if you want to change from one-way control of a light to two-way switching. That way, if you decide to change to metal fittings in the future, you'll be able to earth them safely and easily. If both your mounting box and faceplate are plastic and there's no earthing terminal, run green/yellow sleeving over the bare cores and clamp their exposed ends with a connector. You'll then need to run a short length of earth core (cut from 1mm 2 two-core and earth cable, and insulated with green/yellow sleeving) between the earthing terminals on the faceplate and the mounting box. If you have a metal faceplate, the main earth core runs to the faceplate first. In this case, the earth core or cores must be connected to the earthing terminal of the mounting box. The commonest light switch combination is a metal mounting box and plastic faceplate. You may have to re-use them, as modern fittings come with metric-sized screws and older fittings might have imperial threads. Also, try and keep hold of your original screws. Just make sure you write down exactly how the old switch was wired before you disconnect it, and wire the new switch in the same way. If a switch is damaged, or you just want to update your fittings, it's quite simple to replace it. Where your space is limited, or if you want a switch to be unobtrusive, you can fit narrow architrave switches into your door frames.īuilding regulations require that only ceiling-mounted pull-cord switches are installed in bathrooms and shower rooms. Switches generally need a 16mm-deep mounting box - although some dimmers may need deeper boxes. They're wired in much the same way as a standard switch. Dimmers let you to raise and lower the light level - and may have a combined or separate on/off and dimming control, so you don't have to readjust the light level every time you turn on the light. There's a huge range of fittings available - from functional plastic to stylish metallic finishes. You can also get versions that give you two- and multi-way switching which allow you to control lights using two or more different switches, for example in a hallway. Wall-mounted light switch fittings (known as 'plate switches') can contain one, two, three or even more individual switches (or 'gangs') that let you control a number of separate light fittings from one place. If yours does not match the system shown here, that doesn't necessarily mean they are unsafe. There is more than one method of wiring multi-way lights. The lights they control should take power from the same circuit, but if yours are incorrectly wired and take power from different circuits, there will be live cables at each switch position when one circuit is isolated. Further information is available online or from your local authority.īe cautious when opening up multi-way switches. If in any doubt, or where required by the law, consult a competent person who is registered with an electrical certification scheme. Check all finished work with a socket tester (or voltage tester for lighting circuits) before usingįor your safety, these products must be installed in accordance with local Building Regulations.These confirm whether circuits are dead and safe to work on Check the circuit is dead with a socket tester or voltage tester/meter for lighting circuits.Attach a note to the unit to advise you are working on the circuit. Or switch off the breaker and lock it if you can.Put this in your pocket to avoid accidental replacement Isolate the circuit you plan to work on by removing the circuit fuse. Remember to switch off the mains power at the consumer unit/fuse box.Never take risks with electrical safety. Before you start any type of electrical work, you must follow these following safety precautions:
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